

When you compare heat pump quotes, you need to check far more than the bottom-line price. A proper quote should include a full heat loss calculation, the exact make and model of the heat pump, cylinder specifications, radiator upgrades, controls, and a clear breakdown of labour and materials. If any of those are missing, you're not looking at a real quote.
Let's get this out of the way early. A quote of £8,000 that skips the radiator upgrades your house needs will leave you with a system that can't heat your home properly in January. You'll end up paying for those upgrades later anyway, plus the cost of a return visit.
I've seen homeowners save £1,500 by going with the cheapest installer, only to spend £3,000 in year two fixing problems that should have been addressed from the start. The cheapest quote often means something has been left out, not that the installer is more efficient.
So what should you actually be comparing? Let's go through every section of a proper heat pump quote.
This is the foundation of everything. Every MCS certified installer must carry out a room-by-room heat loss calculation before specifying a system. If a quote arrives without one, or if the installer has only done a rough estimate based on your house's square footage, that's a serious red flag.
The calculation should account for your insulation levels, window types, wall construction, and ventilation. It determines the size of heat pump you need, measured in kilowatts (kW). Get this wrong and nothing else matters.
The quote should name the exact heat pump, not just "8kW air source heat pump" but something like "Vaillant Arotherm Plus 7kW" or "Samsung Gen 7 8kW". You need the specific model so you can look up its SCOP (Seasonal Coefficient of Performance), noise output, and warranty terms yourself.
Check the SCOP figure. For an air source heat pump in the UK climate, you'd expect an SCOP somewhere between 3.0 and 4.0, depending on the flow temperature your system needs. A higher SCOP means lower running costs. If SCOP isn't mentioned anywhere in the quote, ask for it.
Heat pumps don't produce instant hot water like a combi boiler. You'll need a cylinder, and the quote should specify its size (typically 170 to 300 litres depending on your household), the brand, and whether it's a heat pump specific cylinder with a larger coil.
A standard off-the-shelf cylinder designed for a gas boiler won't transfer heat efficiently from a heat pump. If the quote just says "new cylinder" with no further detail, push back.
Heat pumps work best at lower flow temperatures than gas boilers, usually around 35 to 45°C rather than 60 to 75°C. That means some of your existing radiators might be too small. A good installer will identify which radiators need swapping and list them individually with sizes.
If the quote says "no radiator changes needed" but the installer hasn't actually surveyed your radiators room by room, be cautious. On the other hand, not every home needs a full set of new radiators. A three-bed semi might only need four or five upgraded, not all twelve.
The quote should specify the control system. Most modern heat pumps come with their own controller, but you should also see a room thermostat, and ideally a weather compensation setup mentioned. Weather compensation adjusts the flow temperature based on outside conditions. It's one of the biggest factors in running a heat pump efficiently.
This section should cover the refrigerant pipework (or glycol pipework for monobloc units), any modifications to your existing central heating pipework, the electrical connection, and any drain requirements. A separate electrician may be needed for the dedicated circuit, and that cost should be included or clearly flagged as excluded.
Look for line items like the condensate drain, anti-vibration mounts, and the base or stand for the outdoor unit. These are small costs individually but they add up, and if they're missing from the quote, they'll appear as extras later.
How many days is the installation expected to take? For a straightforward air source heat pump retrofit in a three-bed house, you'd typically expect two to four days. If the quote doesn't mention a timescale at all, it makes it harder to plan and harder to hold the installer to account.
Here's a practical example. Say you've got three quotes for a 1930s three-bed semi in Leeds:
Quote B looks cheapest, but it's not really a quote. It's an estimate with too many unknowns. Quote A and Quote C are both proper quotes, and the difference in price is partly explained by the underfloor heating in Quote C. Now you can make a real comparison.
Get everything down to the same level of detail and you'll find comparing becomes much easier.
The Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) grant is worth £7,500 in 2026 for air source and ground source heat pumps. The installer applies for the grant on your behalf, and it's deducted directly from your bill. You don't need to pay the full amount upfront and then claim it back.
A few things to check on your quote regarding the grant:
Be wary of any installer who doesn't mention the grant at all, or who seems unclear about how it works. And if someone tells you the grant has ended, double-check. As of May 2026, the BUS grant is still available, though the scheme is funded on a first-come, first-served basis and the budget does have a cap.
This is the worry I hear most often. You're being asked to spend £10,000 or more on something you've never bought before, and you don't have a built-in sense of what's reasonable.
Here's a rough guide for 2026. A typical air source heat pump installation for a medium-sized UK home, including the cylinder, radiator upgrades, controls, and labour, usually comes in between £10,000 and £16,000 before the grant. After the £7,500 BUS grant, you're looking at roughly £2,500 to £8,500 out of pocket. Ground source systems cost more, often £15,000 to £25,000 before the grant, because of the ground works.
If a quote is significantly below that range, something is likely missing. If it's well above, ask the installer to justify the extra cost. There may be good reasons, like a particularly tricky install, a larger property, or premium equipment.
Getting three quotes from different MCS certified installers is the single best thing you can do. Not just for price, but because the variation in system design will tell you a lot about who really understands your house.
Any one of these on its own should prompt questions. Two or more? Find a different installer.
Aim for at least three quotes from different MCS certified installers. This gives you enough variation to spot outliers on price and system design. Don't just go with the cheapest or the most expensive.
For an air source heat pump in a typical UK retrofit, a seasonal COP (SCOP) of 3.0 to 3.5 is realistic when running at flow temperatures around 45°C. If your system runs at lower flow temperatures with larger radiators or underfloor heating, you could see SCOPs closer to 4.0.
Yes. If the installer has done a proper heat loss calculation and determined that some radiators are undersized for the lower flow temperatures a heat pump uses, those upgrades should be listed individually in the quote with specific sizes and costs.
Yes. The MCS certified installer handles the Boiler Upgrade Scheme application and the £7,500 is deducted from your invoice. You should never need to pay the full pre-grant price and then claim the money back yourself.
Most air source heat pump installations in a standard UK home take between two and four days. More complex jobs involving extensive pipework changes, underfloor heating, or ground source systems can take longer. Your quote should state the expected duration.
If you're ready to get proper quotes from vetted, MCS certified heat pump installers near you, use the search tool at heatpumpinstallerdirectory.co.uk to find local professionals who'll survey your home and give you the detail you need to make a confident decision.